SURFING FOR WRITERS
riding giants
So last night while I was under hypnosis, my hypnotherapist, who is also a friend from school, was trying to return me to the memory of being in a mental & physical place where I could write with intense focus and without distractions. And something fairly strange happened.
Less than 24 hours earlier, I’d come home from the Dominican Republic, where I’d been for almost three glorious weeks, and where I wrote a lot. For most of the trip I was alone in a little cottage with no internet (and for a few hours a day, no electricity either). I was working on a project that to some degree I was making up as I went along: For a few hours in the evening, I’d sit and outline and make notes. I could feel the idea out there, and I just had to harness it and arrange the elements and make sure they were in place for the next section before I sat down to actually write. Once they were, or I thought they were, I would sit down with my laptop and write fifteen to twenty pages until it was dawn. I wrote without getting getting up much, with intense focus, and with momentum: One of those rare and exhilarating times where the writing picks you up and takes you. I’ve always called that sensation “creative euphoria.” Most HTMLgiant readers know it, I think. So my hypnotherapist was trying to get me to that place.
Another thing I did in the DR was go surfing the day before I left. I’d never really surfed before. The waves in the DR aren’t big (which is maybe optimal if you’re just learning), and after only a day I wasn’t very good at it, but I loved it. Basically you do this:
- Swim out and float in what seems like the right place.
- See a wave coming.
- Position/aim yourself just right to catch the wave.
- Paddle hard so you’re going fast enough that the wave will pick you up rather than pass over you & abandon you in its afterchurn.
- Zoom suddenly forward on the wave with what feels like incredible grace and speed, skimming over the water smoothly and without friction.
- Leap to your feet and, keeping your balance, ride the wave, maintaining that experience of effortless speed, grace, and divine momentum for as long as you can.
- Go out and position yourself to catch another wave.
Anyway, last night, my hypnotherapist was telling me to return to the memories of “creative euphoria” that I felt while writing in the DR, and the memory that my mind kept presenting instead was the experience of surfing: the sensation of swift & unimpeded velocity, of skimming without friction over a liquid surface for as long as I could maintain poise and balance. Immediately it became clear to me why I liked surfing so much–and why it was fortunate that I’d done it on this particular trip.
Surfing is the perfect sport for writers.* The process of preparation is eerily analogous, and the reward is a concentrated version of a creatively euphoric experience. Every night as I got ready to write, I could sense the next part of the idea out there–the mood and the elements and the kinetic energy gathering on the horizon. It was like a wave coming, of course. In order to catch it, to take advantage of it, to maximize its possibilities, I had to put myself in the right place and position myself correctly, then work (get myself in the right mental space, relentlessly write down by hand whatever I was thinking, force myself to capture the ideas) just like I had to paddle hard in the seconds before the wave came in order to get swept up with it. And then when I sat down to actually write–if all went well–I had the euphoric experience of frictionless momentum, of being propelled effortlessly forward while having to maintain perfect, precarious balance. (And knowing that if I allowed myself to get distracted or took a wrong step, I’d “fall off the board.”)
I was in the water for a long time. I have bruises and aches everywhere (knees, hips, and upper stomach get it the worst). But by far the most frustrating part of being back in New York, which feels like Siberia this week, temperature-wise, is how badly I want to go surfing again, right now.
*Joyce Carol Oates says it’s running, as you may have read, but personally I’ve never found that to be the case. I hate running.
I used to surf a lot in high school, but haven’t much since. I was just talking with a writer friend who lives out on the east end of Long Island and who surfs a lot – long boarding, just taking it easy. And I realized that there was little more focusing than those hours I used to spend in the water. So, the goal for this summer is the go surfing at least three times a week, early mornings or whatever – long boarding, not short board like I used to. And I know it doesn’t feel like it now, Nick, but as far as cities go, NYC is a good one for surfing (you can even take a train to Long Beach and walk to the surfing beach from the station). With a long suit, you can surf from late-May to early-October (and even longer, if you’re willing to brave a dry suit and Vaseline on your face – I have another friend here in Brooklyn who drives out early mornings to LI and surfs almost year round).
I used to surf a lot in high school, but haven’t much since. I was just talking with a writer friend who lives out on the east end of Long Island and who surfs a lot – long boarding, just taking it easy. And I realized that there was little more focusing than those hours I used to spend in the water. So, the goal for this summer is the go surfing at least three times a week, early mornings or whatever – long boarding, not short board like I used to. And I know it doesn’t feel like it now, Nick, but as far as cities go, NYC is a good one for surfing (you can even take a train to Long Beach and walk to the surfing beach from the station). With a long suit, you can surf from late-May to early-October (and even longer, if you’re willing to brave a dry suit and Vaseline on your face – I have another friend here in Brooklyn who drives out early mornings to LI and surfs almost year round).
I’m very pleased to hear that something besides running is the perfect sport for writers, even if I don’t have a way to participate in it very often at all. I have surfed only once but I was a natural. What other writers surf? I’d probably rather be like those writers than Oates (or Murakami who says the same thing about running).
This is really beautifully written, Nick.
I’m very pleased to hear that something besides running is the perfect sport for writers, even if I don’t have a way to participate in it very often at all. I have surfed only once but I was a natural. What other writers surf? I’d probably rather be like those writers than Oates (or Murakami who says the same thing about running).
This is really beautifully written, Nick.
It’s running.
It’s running.
Running, to me, feels tedious, clumsy, and bad for the knees. Thudthudthudthudthudthud… ugh.
I do love to swim, though.
Running, to me, feels tedious, clumsy, and bad for the knees. Thudthudthudthudthudthud… ugh.
I do love to swim, though.
I write so I don’t have to participate in sports.
But you do make surfing sound amazing, Nick. I think if someone put a gun to my head and told me to engage in some form of physical activity, surfing would be the way to go.
I write so I don’t have to participate in sports.
But you do make surfing sound amazing, Nick. I think if someone put a gun to my head and told me to engage in some form of physical activity, surfing would be the way to go.
Lovely post, Nick, even if it makes me want a hypnotherapist and an ocean view.
I’ve never surfed but I used to skateboard. The wheels hiss on painted pavement. Similar feelings I think.
Lovely post, Nick, even if it makes me want a hypnotherapist and an ocean view.
I’ve never surfed but I used to skateboard. The wheels hiss on painted pavement. Similar feelings I think.
Beautiful, Nick. I spent a summer surfing in Portugal with my (now) wife. We’d be in the water for six or seven hours, then have some food and while she’d tan or nap, I’d write as frantically as possible to get down all of the ideas that had surfaced while cresting over waves. It wasn’t frantic spastic, though, which was probably the best feeling. My hand just wouldn’t stop moving and it all felt… graceful. Like the first few steps on a longboard, when you realize that you’re walking on water.
Shameless plug: I wrote a story called CURRENTS (http://www.troubadour21.com/short-stories/nikkorpon/currents/) that is my one and only attempt at writing a surfing story because I felt I couldn’t really capture the real feeling of surfing, which is probably the reason I love it so much. Oh, and I definitely suck at riding, but that’s never really been the point.
Beautiful, Nick. I spent a summer surfing in Portugal with my (now) wife. We’d be in the water for six or seven hours, then have some food and while she’d tan or nap, I’d write as frantically as possible to get down all of the ideas that had surfaced while cresting over waves. It wasn’t frantic spastic, though, which was probably the best feeling. My hand just wouldn’t stop moving and it all felt… graceful. Like the first few steps on a longboard, when you realize that you’re walking on water.
Shameless plug: I wrote a story called CURRENTS (http://www.troubadour21.com/short-stories/nikkorpon/currents/) that is my one and only attempt at writing a surfing story because I felt I couldn’t really capture the real feeling of surfing, which is probably the reason I love it so much. Oh, and I definitely suck at riding, but that’s never really been the point.
Ah yes, good point. I would imagine that one difference between surfing and skateboarding is skateboarding is basically all active. Anywhere you want to take the board, you have to make it go. You don’t have to wait for this big non-human force to come alone and sweep you up.
weird itals
Ah yes, good point. I would imagine that one difference between surfing and skateboarding is skateboarding is basically all active. Anywhere you want to take the board, you have to make it go. You don’t have to wait for this big non-human force to come alone and sweep you up.
weird itals
Huh. I didn’t even make the phonetic connection between “riding” and “writing” until just now.
bookmarked the story to read!
Huh. I didn’t even make the phonetic connection between “riding” and “writing” until just now.
bookmarked the story to read!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrWZlh7DnBE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrWZlh7DnBE
I think surfing is definitely analogous. Skiing and snowboarding as well. All three of these sports have a similar effect.
Seated meditation, too. It isn’t a sport, but it’s analogous. Just sitting down and not moving and trying not to attach to random thought trains, and breathing.
And smoking, also. Which is like a form of meditation involving 4,000 toxic chemicals.
I think surfing is definitely analogous. Skiing and snowboarding as well. All three of these sports have a similar effect.
Seated meditation, too. It isn’t a sport, but it’s analogous. Just sitting down and not moving and trying not to attach to random thought trains, and breathing.
And smoking, also. Which is like a form of meditation involving 4,000 toxic chemicals.
Too, if you’re jonesing for that feeling, Woodshed Films (http://woodshed.com/) is a good place to start, especially THE PRESENT, THE SEEDLING and SPROUT. They’ll get you through the winter.
Too, if you’re jonesing for that feeling, Woodshed Films (http://woodshed.com/) is a good place to start, especially THE PRESENT, THE SEEDLING and SPROUT. They’ll get you through the winter.
I like the itals. And “alone.”
I like the itals. And “alone.”
This plagues me being a cyclist.
Friends will ask me what I did over the weekend, and I’ll say, “Got some writing done,” and then they’ll talk about a ride they took over the weekend, and I’ll have to clarify.
This plagues me being a cyclist.
Friends will ask me what I did over the weekend, and I’ll say, “Got some writing done,” and then they’ll talk about a ride they took over the weekend, and I’ll have to clarify.
i wanna see you skateboard, that seems good
i wanna see you skateboard, that seems good
http://theparisreview.org/viewinterview.php/prmMID/4155
http://theparisreview.org/viewinterview.php/prmMID/4155
“…a mental & physical place…intense focus…without distractions…creative euphoria…”
I agree with meditation as a means to this end if you don’t want/need to work your muscles, increase your heart rate. And dancing if you do.
Dancing can be solitary, partnered, in a group; traditional, freeform, etc etc etc. Dancing is “creative” and “movement”. It can be “abandon”.
And there is often an element of humor. Most people look funny when they dance.
“…a mental & physical place…intense focus…without distractions…creative euphoria…”
I agree with meditation as a means to this end if you don’t want/need to work your muscles, increase your heart rate. And dancing if you do.
Dancing can be solitary, partnered, in a group; traditional, freeform, etc etc etc. Dancing is “creative” and “movement”. It can be “abandon”.
And there is often an element of humor. Most people look funny when they dance.
Running, if done with correct form, is surfing. Silence should be sound of running. But I think physical activity–and this hardly an original thought, but still I find a bit true–is key to unlocking things for some writers.
TN Williams was into swimming big-time, Nick.
Running, if done with correct form, is surfing. Silence should be sound of running. But I think physical activity–and this hardly an original thought, but still I find a bit true–is key to unlocking things for some writers.
TN Williams was into swimming big-time, Nick.
Nick, The “creative euphoria” you mention is what some psychologists call flow, after Mihály Csíkszentmihályi. I’ve had this experience running, which I can no longer do (after three knee operations), cycling, painting, and, of course, writing.
Here’s the wiki def, first two paragraphs: Flow is the mental state of operation in which the person is fully immersed in what he or she is doing by a feeling of energized focus, full involvement, and success in the process of the activity. Proposed by Mihály Csíkszentmihályi, the positive psychology concept has been widely referenced across a variety of fields.[1]
According to Csíkszentmihályi, flow is completely focused motivation. It is a single-minded immersion and represents perhaps the ultimate in harnessing the emotions in the service of performing and learning. In flow the emotions are not just contained and channeled, but positive, energized, and aligned with the task at hand. To be caught in the ennui of depression or the agitation of anxiety is to be barred from flow. The hallmark of flow is a feeling of spontaneous joy, even rapture, while performing a task.[2]
Nick, The “creative euphoria” you mention is what some psychologists call flow, after Mihály Csíkszentmihályi. I’ve had this experience running, which I can no longer do (after three knee operations), cycling, painting, and, of course, writing.
Here’s the wiki def, first two paragraphs: Flow is the mental state of operation in which the person is fully immersed in what he or she is doing by a feeling of energized focus, full involvement, and success in the process of the activity. Proposed by Mihály Csíkszentmihályi, the positive psychology concept has been widely referenced across a variety of fields.[1]
According to Csíkszentmihályi, flow is completely focused motivation. It is a single-minded immersion and represents perhaps the ultimate in harnessing the emotions in the service of performing and learning. In flow the emotions are not just contained and channeled, but positive, energized, and aligned with the task at hand. To be caught in the ennui of depression or the agitation of anxiety is to be barred from flow. The hallmark of flow is a feeling of spontaneous joy, even rapture, while performing a task.[2]
“I have bruises and aches everywhere (knees, hips, and upper stomach get it the worst).”
yep, that sounds like writing to me
“I have bruises and aches everywhere (knees, hips, and upper stomach get it the worst).”
yep, that sounds like writing to me
Awesome. Thanks for posting this.
Awesome. Thanks for posting this.
Northwest surfer. La Push, Ocean Shores, occasionally the Oregon coast. My son taught me. There is the waiting always waiting for the right set. Like writing. You can’t force it. Learn how to do it then stand in the water and wait for it to arrive.
Northwest surfer. La Push, Ocean Shores, occasionally the Oregon coast. My son taught me. There is the waiting always waiting for the right set. Like writing. You can’t force it. Learn how to do it then stand in the water and wait for it to arrive.
Being out on the water bobbing up and down with the current, waiting for a wave, can be one of the most relaxing experiences ever. No matter how shitty I feel, after an hour or two of surfing, or trying to, I almost always feel better. All the kids I grew up with in Florida who surfed were all extremely creative. The majority of them all either painted, played in bands, or wrote. It’s something to do with the ocean I’m sure.
Being out on the water bobbing up and down with the current, waiting for a wave, can be one of the most relaxing experiences ever. No matter how shitty I feel, after an hour or two of surfing, or trying to, I almost always feel better. All the kids I grew up with in Florida who surfed were all extremely creative. The majority of them all either painted, played in bands, or wrote. It’s something to do with the ocean I’m sure.
Here’s his talk on TED:
http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/mihaly_csikszentmihalyi_on_flow.html
Here’s his talk on TED:
http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/mihaly_csikszentmihalyi_on_flow.html
this is great. thanks!
this is great. thanks!
Ride the wave you’re on.
Ride the wave you’re on.
I wish I could do at least one sport. Goddamnit.
I wish I could do at least one sport. Goddamnit.
Tennis is my sport. Always has been. Always will be.
Tennis is my sport. Always has been. Always will be.
Nick, thanks for the post. I, too, have found many similarities between surfing and writing. I find the negotiation that takes place between the surfer and tidal pull (mind you, it is not the water that moves) is nearly identical to negotiations with the force of language. In both, the individual negotiating uses a single, basic tool to connect, if only for an instant, to an enormous and perpetual force. The connection is not made at pinpoints or in concentrated instances, but across a plane, the plane of the board and the plane of the page. The energy and strength one exerts to stay up is isometric, pushing against the self to push against the force. To experience satisfaction in either, one must engage with what one is immersed in: listen to where it is going, make predictions (though often wrong) about direction, accept that one is participating in and not controlling an ancient force, and sometimes be willing to paddle way, way out there in order to catch the best ride.
Nick, thanks for the post. I, too, have found many similarities between surfing and writing. I find the negotiation that takes place between the surfer and tidal pull (mind you, it is not the water that moves) is nearly identical to negotiations with the force of language. In both, the individual negotiating uses a single, basic tool to connect, if only for an instant, to an enormous and perpetual force. The connection is not made at pinpoints or in concentrated instances, but across a plane, the plane of the board and the plane of the page. The energy and strength one exerts to stay up is isometric, pushing against the self to push against the force. To experience satisfaction in either, one must engage with what one is immersed in: listen to where it is going, make predictions (though often wrong) about direction, accept that one is participating in and not controlling an ancient force, and sometimes be willing to paddle way, way out there in order to catch the best ride.
i used to in high school, before sunrise at jalama beach near the air force base. the waves there are thick, clean (by california standards), curled as cold margarine. the beach was otherwise empty, and one of the patrons was a man named jerry in his fifties and a green wetsuit with a beerbelly and strikebeard. the waiting was meditation, better than the actual rush. i do miss the waiting, the soreness under my arms, the sun as a parent.
if i went out now i might get myself killed. but i find any variety of nightswimming is a close second.
i used to in high school, before sunrise at jalama beach near the air force base. the waves there are thick, clean (by california standards), curled as cold margarine. the beach was otherwise empty, and one of the patrons was a man named jerry in his fifties and a green wetsuit with a beerbelly and strikebeard. the waiting was meditation, better than the actual rush. i do miss the waiting, the soreness under my arms, the sun as a parent.
if i went out now i might get myself killed. but i find any variety of nightswimming is a close second.
i’m a running man myself. different strokes.
i’m a running man myself. different strokes.
Yes, FLOW. I know this Csíkszentmihályi definition more when I’m improvising music than when writing, where I feel it’s more of a channeling activity. If I can get out of the way, the words just come… and I take no responsibility for what they say.
Yes, FLOW. I know this Csíkszentmihályi definition more when I’m improvising music than when writing, where I feel it’s more of a channeling activity. If I can get out of the way, the words just come… and I take no responsibility for what they say.
This is Nick’s hypnnotherapist. If you’re interested in experiencing hypnosis yourself, email me at zechory@gmail.com
This is Nick’s hypnnotherapist. If you’re interested in experiencing hypnosis yourself, email me at zechory@gmail.com
Ha. I confirm that this is actually him.
Ha. I confirm that this is actually him.
The dreaming mind is usually bodiless, has peculiar powers of locomotion and, in my experience at least, often runs or glides or “flies” along the ground or in the air.
Oates
The dreaming mind is usually bodiless, has peculiar powers of locomotion and, in my experience at least, often runs or glides or “flies” along the ground or in the air.
Oates
Bicycling works for me… ideas bubble up from the back wheel.
Bicycling works for me… ideas bubble up from the back wheel.
Hey! I really like this post. It makes me feel good about my country, at least someone feels its relaxing rather than noticing the craziness around here. I bet you went to Cabarete, am I right? (:
Hey! I really like this post. It makes me feel good about my country, at least someone feels its relaxing rather than noticing the craziness around here. I bet you went to Cabarete, am I right? (:
No, I was in Playa Bonita. I had a friend who went to Cabarete at the same time and loved it though…
No, I was in Playa Bonita. I had a friend who went to Cabarete at the same time and loved it though…